Climbing Mount Kinabalu: Spiritual peak of Borneo

Ian Lloyd Neubauer, for CNN
2 minute read
Updated 7:34 PM EST, Mon November 16, 2015
At 4,092 meters, the stunning St. Johns Peak is only three meters shorter than Mount Kinabalu's true summit, Low's Peak. It was named after a former British counsel in Brunei who joined the second and third documented climbs of Mount Kinabalu in 1858.
St. Johns Peak, Mount Kinabalu —
At 4,092 meters, the stunning St. Johns Peak is only three meters shorter than Mount Kinabalu's true summit, Low's Peak. It was named after a former British counsel in Brunei who joined the second and third documented climbs of Mount Kinabalu in 1858.
Ian Neubauer/CNN
Day one of the hike to the summit of Mount Kinabalu is a slow and steady five-hour ascent through the lower mountain rainforest along six kilometers of reinforced carved steps.
But first you have to start here —
Day one of the hike to the summit of Mount Kinabalu is a slow and steady five-hour ascent through the lower mountain rainforest along six kilometers of reinforced carved steps.
Ian Neubauer/CNN
The canopies of Mount Kinabalu National Park are among the most biologically diverse places on earth, home to 800 species of orchids and 600 fern species -- around 50 of which are endemic.
Diverse forests —
The canopies of Mount Kinabalu National Park are among the most biologically diverse places on earth, home to 800 species of orchids and 600 fern species -- around 50 of which are endemic.
Ian Neubauer/CNN
On day two, trekkers rise early for a 3 a.m. start. The final 2.7 kilometers takes two to four hours to complete in the dark. Roped supports are anchored into the cliff's steepest positions.
Day two —
On day two, trekkers rise early for a 3 a.m. start. The final 2.7 kilometers takes two to four hours to complete in the dark. Roped supports are anchored into the cliff's steepest positions.
Ian Neubauer/CNN
The sun rising over Sabah as seen from the summit at Low's Peak, named after former British colonial administrator Hugh Low, who made the first documented ascent of Mount Kinabalu's summit plateau in 1851.
Low's Peak —
The sun rising over Sabah as seen from the summit at Low's Peak, named after former British colonial administrator Hugh Low, who made the first documented ascent of Mount Kinabalu's summit plateau in 1851.
Ian Neubauer/CNN
Sunrise colors change throughout the morning. These steaks overlook the Crocker Range, a mountainous spine with an average height of 1,800 meters that divides the west and east coasts of Sabah.
Crocker Range —
Sunrise colors change throughout the morning. These steaks overlook the Crocker Range, a mountainous spine with an average height of 1,800 meters that divides the west and east coasts of Sabah.
Ian Neubauer/CNN
By 9 a.m., clouds begin to ascend over the summit plateau. Rain follows shortly after.
Mount Kinabalu: Southeast Asia's highest mountain —
By 9 a.m., clouds begin to ascend over the summit plateau. Rain follows shortly after.
Ian Neubauer/CNN
The aim of the early morning start is to make it to Low's Peak for sunrise. These hikers didn't succeed.
Too early for some —
The aim of the early morning start is to make it to Low's Peak for sunrise. These hikers didn't succeed.
Ian Neubauer/CNN
Local porters earn only 128 Malaysian ringgit ($40) for two days' work on Mount Kinabalu. Nevertheless, the positions are highly coveted among subsistence farmers living at the foothills of the mountains.
Porters —
Local porters earn only 128 Malaysian ringgit ($40) for two days' work on Mount Kinabalu. Nevertheless, the positions are highly coveted among subsistence farmers living at the foothills of the mountains.
Ian Neubauer/CNN
Nepenthes villosa are the largest and most beautiful of 13 species of carnivorous pitcher plants found within Mount Kinabalu National Park.
Carnivorous plants —
Nepenthes villosa are the largest and most beautiful of 13 species of carnivorous pitcher plants found within Mount Kinabalu National Park.
Ian Neubauer/CNN
Climbing Mount Kinabalu, Malaysia's highest mountain

Editor’s Note: CNN Travel’s series often carries sponsorship originating from the countries and regions we profile. However, CNN retains full editorial control over all of its reports. Read the policy.

Story highlights

UNESCO-listed Mount Kinabalu is one of Malaysian Borneo's most popular tourist attractions

Mount Kinabalu climbers are required by law to have a guide and hiking permit

Dry season of March to August are the best months to climb

CNN  — 

Before Christianity and Islam became the dominant religions of the island of Borneo, animist beliefs dictated that when a person died, their spirit rose to the peak of Mount Kinabalu.

At 4,095 meters above sea level, it’s one of the highest mountains in Southeast Asia.

Today, UNESCO-listed Mount Kinabalu National Park is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the state of Sabah, in Malaysian Borneo, with visitors needing to book two to three months in advance to secure one of 196 daily allocated hiking permits.

Though Sabah is developing at pace, villagers living at the foothills of Mount Kinabalu continue to perform animist rituals to appease spirits residing at the cloud-ringed peak so no harm comes to those who scale it.

MORE: Malaysian Borneo: Can you top this for adventure?

The above images were taken on the rock-strewn 8.7-kilometer trail to the summit with Evan Conrad, a guide with Amazing Borneo Tours who first climbed Mount Kinabalu 20 years ago.

Porters earn 128 Malaysian Ringgit ($40) for two days' work on Mount Kinabalu.
Porters earn 128 Malaysian Ringgit ($40) for two days' work on Mount Kinabalu.
Ian Neubauer/CNN

“I’ve climbed the mountains maybe 100 times,” Conrad said.

“But I never get bored of it. Every time I see something new that excites me, and the view at sunrise is never, ever the same.”

There are multiple options for those wanting to hit the summit, ranging from from one-day to two-night climbs.

Pros recommend beginners do the three-day, two-night option. It allows them to acclimatize to the altitude.

Only the super-fit should try to get to the summit in a day.

Guides and permits are required by law.

More information is available from the Mount Kinabalu Official Climb & Booking Information Centre, which says March to August are the best months to visit as it’s the dry season.

MORE: 10 best islands for a Malaysia holiday

Getting there

From Malaysia’s capital of Kuala Lumpur, a number of flights to Sabah capital Kota Kinabalu are available.

Flight time is about two and a half hours.

The drive from Kota Kinabalu to Mount Kinabalu takes about two hours.

Ian Lloyd Neubauer is a Sydney-based freelance journalist specializing in adventure travel. He’s reported extensively across East Asia and the South Pacific and is the author of two travel novels, Getafix (2004) and Maquis (2006).